Sohee Park, known as “Miss Sohee” is the 25-year-old Womenswear Designer. Raised in Seoul and now based in west London, the Central Saint Martins graduate has a taste inspired by trinkets of the past, combined with her signature ultra-feminine panache.
Park translate her sketches from the page into real life to create vibrant silhouettes that she defines as demi-couture. Her first collection, titled ‘The Girl In Full Bloom,’ was inspired by the concept evolution from girl to woman, paralleling the designer’s own transition and her progression from illustration to design.
Shortly after graduating from Central Saint Martins, Park’s gowns were featured on the cover of LOVE Magazine’s, alongside press in British Vogue, Vogue Korea, Vogue Greece, Vogue Singapore, L’officiel, Elle, Vanity Fair and W to name a few.
Miss Sohee continues to explore the craftsmanship and artisanal message. Her fall 2021 couture collection is an intimate ode to childhood holidays spent by the sea with her beloved grandmother. The collection fully corresponds to the successful style of the young designer and, at the same time, is quite original.
In general, the last week of Haute Couture did not cause me any positive emotions. Most collections are boring: no skill in cutting and sewing, no new ideas, no interesting images at the art level.
The Viktor and Rolf Spring 2021 Couture Collection is no exception – nothing new. Aesthetically, the collection reminded me of the kitschy fashion of the 1830s, when young (and especially not young) ladies did not know how to emphasize their own personality, made stupid hairstyles, ugly hats and clung to bows, a lot of ridiculous bows.
In the Guo Pei Couture Spring-Summer 2020 collection, the Chinese designer took us on a journey to the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas.
For Guo Pei the Himalayas are a holy place, the residence of the gods, and the sacred temple of the soul, where the spirit soars to reach the divine.
However, Guo herself has never been to the Himalayas: “What I present in the show is just my own interpretation of this mysterious, spiritually powerful place,” she said. “When I was young, in my heart, Haute Couture was like the Himalayas, the top of a pyramid for me.”
Continuing her spiritual theme, Guo embroidered traditional Buddhist Tangkas on reconstructed fabrics. The Buddhas of the three realms and the mysteries of the circle of life were lavishly depicted in three-dimensional gold thread motifs on thick brocades. This rich fabric was cut into tubular capes that stretched across the floor or into Imperial mantles, completely lined with white tulle ribbons that painstakingly twisted into rosettes to resemble soft snow-white fur. In the designer’s vision, it was a symbol of purity: “they are the snow goddesses,” she said.
Simple silhouettes inspired by kimonos and Tibetan clothing evolved into more sophisticated ideas. The final look of the show was also quite impressive: a ceremonial brocade cape with a majestic train, an exquisite Buddhist Tangka embroidered with gold threads, pearls and precious stones on the back. It looked spectacular.
The Akha are an ethnic group who live in small villages at higher elevations in the mountains of Thailand, Myanmar, Laos, and Yunnan Province in China. Their number is more than 500,000 people.
Women wear broad leggings, a short black skirt with a white beaded sporran, a loose fitting black jacket with heavily embroidered cuffs and lapels. Akha women are known for their embroidery skills.
The headdresses worn by the women are the most spectacular and elaborate items of Akha dress. Akha women define their age or marital status with the style of headdress worn. At roughly age 12, the Akha female exchanges her child’s cap for that of a girl. A few years later she will begin to don the jejaw, the beaded sash that hangs down the front of her skirt and keeps it from flying up in the breeze. During mid-adolescence she will start wearing the adult woman’s headdress. Headdresses are decorated by their owner and each is unique. Silver coins, monkey fur, and dyed chicken feathers are just a few of the things that might decorate the headdress. The headdresses differ by subgroup.
Traditional headdresses of Akha inspired Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino fw 2019/2020 Haute Couture collection.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino haute couture show in Beijing’s was held at the Summer Palace.
Piccioli found dynamic synergies with images of the masters of the early Italian Renaissance that he loves—Piero della Francesca and Fra Angelico, photographs taken of the Summer Palace itself, and of portraits of the emperors and empresses who once ruled here. Designer revealing unexpected aesthetic dialogues between grandness of old cultures, between history and heritage.
Dolce & Gabbana fw 2019/2020 Alta Moda collection was inspired by Ancient Greece. “The new D & G classicism was shown in the look of female divinities in slender draped dresses, white, but glinting with gold embroidery and burnished filigree headpieces. The latter might be Egyptian or Roman circlets – or maybe pieces of ruined sculptures balanced on the head. They were matched by classic Greek and Roman figures used as decoration on relatively simple dresses” – Suzy Menkes wrote in her review for Vogue.
The Ancient Greece theme was decided by Karl Lagerfeld in his Resort 2018 collection for Chanel.
To me, the Dolce & Gabbana fw 2019/2020 Alta Moda collection looks very traditional for the brand – a literal reading of the theme and the banal use of ornaments and accessories, especially the sculpture hats. But the luxury of finishing and presenting the collection to the public is really impressive.
Designers have once again confirmed that the history of the costume is an inexhaustible source of inspiration for modern fashion.
Born in Gdansk (Poland) Avant-garde fashion designer. Graduated artistic education in The International School of Costume and Fashion Design
Finalist in Golden Thread competition premiere vision category (2009) Diane Pernet AVOF award 2009 (Premiere Vision category) Robb Young Premiere Vision choise 2009 ( Vogue.co.uk, International Herald Tribune, the Financial Times, FT’s The Business of Fashion) Re-Act Fashion Show (2009) Third award (Fashion Week Poland ecological competition) OFF Fashion competition (2009) Third award Most photogenic collection award (2009) in OFF Fashion Kielce contest First distinction in TIMEX contest: “Inspiration Time” 2010 OFF Fashion contest finalist (2010)