Архів теґу: ukrainian fashion

Fashion Week is dying

From Ukrainian Fashion Week

Fashion Week is dying. This is a global trend that is also evident in Ukraine: in 2018, Kiev Fashion Days disappeared, and the scale of Ukrainian Fashion Week is decreasing every year. We’re keeping up with the world.

The concept of “Fashion Week” is relatively simple: designers present collections nine months before the season. Buyers buy their favorite collections and sell them in stores, and journalists describe what they saw “in all its glory” – so that consumers who are hungry for new products lick their lips, rush to stores and buy, buy, buy. Nine months is a well-established time limit for replicating collections and logistics. But this was the case in the “old world” – before the internet era.

In Ukraine, Fashion Week began in 1997 as an event that gathers fashionistas at one time and in one place, providing designers with an auditorium, lighting, sound and security. There were few designers, even fewer buyers and fashion journalists, but there was a buyer-rich after the Bandit nineties, exhausted by the Soviet deficit, without any special claims to taste and style – someone who wanted “designer” and was hungry for consumer patriotism.

Sergei Byzou FW 2000 at Ukrainian Fashion Week

The layer of buyers in Ukraine was almost superfluous – things were easily given away from the catwalk, for an additional payment, the designers even promised not to sew such a thing to anyone else.

Without buyers and mass replication, the fashion age gradually turned into a bloated and outdated Vanity Fair – a parade of narcissism that developed outside the industry. Since 1998, we have been talking about the “Ukrainian fashion industry” as “in the process of formation”. It’s still there.

The industry is not growing, but the “parade of narcissism” is also on the decline – the “Old guests of the show” have aged and look tragic and pathetic.

If everything is so sad, then is it necessary that the Fashion Week in Ukraine continues to exist? For whom (what) is it now? Does organizing Fashion Week match the way people buy clothes today?

It is not difficult to imagine that outside of shows and fashion glosses, there is a different, more real and more relevant world. The internet has changed the perception of not only fashion, but also society, changed self-perception.

DZHUS at Ukrainian Fashion Week

The fashion system of seasons and full seasonal collections is a serious financial burden for the designer. In addition to production costs (on average, you need to submit 35 looks), you need to pay for participation in the fashion week (and this is tens of thousands), as well as the work of models, stylists, makeup artists, photographers.In return, you get to content, which freshness and relevance fall hourly – photos and videos, some coverage in the press (which in Ukraine, for the most part, promotes only “their own”).

This whole system can be circumvented by investing money gradually and directly, periodically creating information guides around individual goods (looks). You don’t need to be present at Fashion Week – you pay for articles in Targeted Media, attract suitable opinion leaders, come up with promotions, collaborate with artists, and so on. In Ukraine, there are many examples of brands that entered the international market without showing any collection at Ukrainian Fashion Week (the most famous Vita Kin). Many “permanent and unchanging” participants miss seasons, or even completely leave the game (Podolyan, Gres, Zalevsky, Anisimov and not only them).

Of course, for” Dreamers in Rose-Colored Glasses”, Fashion Week is still an “Event”. Young designers dream of participating, hoping that after that “Grits from the sky” will fall on them. “Fashionistas” still take selfies against the background of banners, considering themselves cool. But does Fashion Week succeed in its main function – moving money from the pockets of customers to the wallets of designers?

Ksenia Schneider at Ukrainian Fashion Week

In recent years, not so much designers (manufacturers of a fashion product) as Ukrainian Fashion Week (an intermediary between the manufacturer and the buyer) receive taxpayer support in the form of State injections. Can this be considered as an investment in the development of the industry? To answer this question, you need to know when large amounts of taxes will return to the state budget of Ukraine from the additional increase in the profits of the supported organization (return on investment).

Have you ever heard that spending public money in Ukraine is treated as an investment?

As for consumers, two global trends also prevent them from spending money on rags. The first “Bees vs honey” is ecological fashion. Most of the expositions of the latest Ukrainian Fashion Week are some kind of upzycling, recycling and “other second – hand”. For me, this is an assumption that re-stitching garbage reduces the overall blockage. The logic is there: instead of throwing out the trash right away, you will play with it and these amusements will save you from buying new junk. It’s fashionable, but it’s anti-fashion, the “death of fashion” as a constant update.

From Ukrainian Fashion Week

Read also: USING OF TRADITIONAL UKRAINIAN COSTUME ELEMENTS FOR CREATING MODERN FASHION COLLECTIONS

UFW FW18-19 WILL BE HELD IN KYIV FROM 3RD TO 8TH OF FEBRUARY

51 shows, 7 presentations and 2 lecture platforms will illustrate the state of Ukrainian fashion at the begining of 2018.

Ukrainian fashion want to become global. Step by step Ukraine tries to develop national fashion industry, which will be an important component of European culture and economy.

Kir-Khartley

Ukrainian Fashion Week will present collections by Larisa Lobanova, Ksenia Schnaider, Polina Veller, Kir-Khartley and other talented Ukrainian designers.

Larisa Lobanova

The 7-th of february will be the New Generation Day on Ukrainian Fashion Week. Among New Names: 2LFactura, Kristina_Аs, GA.EVA.

2LFactura

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Ad campaign of Lviv Fashion Week SS 2014

Vyshyvanka by Chernikova at Lviv Fashion Week fw 2016/2017

The new collection by Lubtsia Chernikova was shown march 25 at Lviv Fashion Week fw 2016/2017.Collection entitled “Today”, because today is a moment between the past and the future, it’s what happens now: we get up in the morning and go to bed at night, between this we try to achieve our goals and become happy. Today is a time to act.
The main motives of the Chernikova’s collection are two most popular types of Ukrainian embroidery – Poltava and Borshchiv vyshyvanka, which are unique folk artifacts, well known abroad. This season the designer tried to interpret and revive this traditions in its collection, using homespun hemp and linen, suede, velvet, silk, cotton, wool, fur decorated with natural cotton lace and velvet ribbon.

 

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Найкраща колекція LVIV FASHION WEEK FW 2016/2017

Sincerely yours

Myroslav Melnyk )

modoslav.blogspot.com

“A Little Chaos” – NAVRO ss 2016 collection

The collection “A Little Chaos” by Ukrainian designer Olga Navrotska was inspired by the novels of Jane Austen, the gardens of the Louvre, and a 2014 British period drama film directed by Alan Rickman.

The first working title of the collection was “The pride and prejudice”, and therefore the dresses and suits vere named like female characters of the novel. Elizabeth, Jane, Georgiana …

“Pride and Prejudice” (1995)

Navro ss 2016

Navro ss 2016

Navro ss 2016

Last summer designer visited the gardens of the Louvre and it added her an inspiration. Later came the film “A Little Chaos” with Kate Winslet, which talked about the first architect woman, who has made “a little chaos” in rigor and the order of the Louvre gardens. Designer realized it was the perfect name for the collection, which has a 70th, 90th, velvet, flowers, willow, bird, winged unicorns and the sun with the months.

Removing the Navro’s campaign,  Olga Navrotska wanted to add a bit of provocation in the romantic mood of the collection and acted out the story of  Jack London “Little Lady of the Big House”.  In general, NAVRO ss 2016 is a fantasy, designer’s associative array, which arose under different circumstances and inspired by classical literature and women’s histories.

I think, it’s very trendy of the spring-summer 2016, because the same romantism we can find in the Alexander McQeen’s and Gucci’s collections:

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«Мессиджі у вічність» від Ольги Навроцької

Sincerely yours,

Myroslav Melnyk )

 

Yana Chervinska ss 2016

“In the Shadow of Young Girls in Flower”

In the ss 2016 season, Ukrainian designer Yana Chervinska was inspired by the novel of Marcel Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time”. The heroine of the new season is sweet melancholic girl-flower, which understands that fades and loses its petals. It is nostalgic for her youth and sadness – in the clothes she combines her favorite girly flounces, ruffles, bows, floral appliques and bright colors, but are replaced by meaningless black and white prints in the form of individual young girls.

The collection is based on a contradiction: the images are sent to both the youth and adult perky elegance, soft knitwear brand bordered with denim, cheerful colors and bows – a dramatic and even more aggressive prints by Alina Zamanova.

The international level of Odessa Fashion Week

EVA SENDZITSKAYA

The Odessa Fashion Week was held this weekend in Odessa for the first time.

First step is always the most exciting and the most thrilling – it’s the reference point for the future. Odessa Fashion Week raised the bar very high and immediately become one of the best fashion events not only in Odessa, but also in Ukraine. Spacious hall (Vera Kholodnaya art-center), Illuminated catwalk, 3-D lighting effects – everything was amazing, everything helped the designer to create his own cpecial atmosphere.

EVA SENDZITSKAYA

VLADA DIZIK & ALEXANDR MYALKOVSKYY

 Among the Odessa Fashion Week designers was the guru of Ukrainian Fashion OKSANA KARAVANSKA, legendary costume artist RUSLAN KHVASTOV and genious Tajikistan designer KHURSHED SATTOROV. 

RUSLAN KHVASTOV

KHURSHED SATTOROV

KHURSHED SATTOROV

Read more about The Odessa Fashion Week at modoslav.blogspot.com soon ))

Sincerely yours,

Myroslav Melnyk )

Fashion Art at GogolFest in Kiev

Project FASHION-ART at the festival GOGOLFEST in 2015 present exhibition of thirty Ukrainian designers that offer a new perspective on fashion. In their works ashion becomes the object of study transformations of human consciousness in the modern world

.

Project participants:

Bob Basset, Серж Смолін (IDoL), Роман Медний, Вячеслав Крыжановский, Ольга Стельмахова(OSTEL), Эдие Каримова, Katarina Ivanenko, Франсуаза Оз & Богдан Перевертун, Liza Volosovskaya, Аnna Zagorodnichok, Марина Рибалко, Andrew Siguntsov, Mykhailo Deyak, Поліна Чоні,Ganna Bogdan, Ірина Бейлі, Руслан Панчук, Polina Veller, Яна Червінська, Dakh Daughters, Іван Фролов, Bogdan Kass.

My favorite is Maryna Rybalko

:

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Відкриття: Henrik Vibskov

Sincerely yours,

Myroslav Melnyk )

From Kiev with fashion

The original article on Russian was published at MOONSTORE.it

Украина и мода или зачем нам свой фешн

http://moonstore.it/fashion/miroslav-melnik/ukraina-i-moda-ili-zachem-nam-svoy-feshn.html

March 18, the fashion marathon gets to Ukraine. Despite all the problems and woes in the country, Ukrainian Fashion Week evolving with each new season. You may be skeptical about the Ukrainian fashion and it is easy to prove that the fashion is not industry in our country, we will never catch up with neither Paris nor China. But the planet twists by optimists and every “no” has it’s “yes”. 

The most powerful argument in favor of the Ukrainian fashion led me to a museum caretaker about ten years ago: “Ukrainian girl was born with a needle in her hand.” And it’s true, Ukrainian woman sewed always – girl makes her dowry, the bride gave the groom embroidered shirt, embroidered by mother shirt guarded the son, a grandmother passed tricks of the trade to her granddaughter. That is why our traditional costume is so filled with positive energy of love and harmony.

“All these shirts are for the village celebrations – it’s not a fashion!” – Say the skeptics. I agree that our culture is rooted in the Ukrainian village. I’m proud of it, because in the villages there are more sincerity, more love for man and nature, more respect for the old values ​​and traditions. Yes, the “village” in Soviet times was called all the old-fashioned, but that times has changed. The XXI century has brought a lot of nonsense in the cities, so the “village” has becoming increasingly cool.

Ukrainian girl was born with a needle in her hand

And about the “fashionable – not fashionable” you can argue for a long. It seemed we just tired with embroidered shirts and then hello again – hello from Valentino Couture spring-summer 2015 show. Beautiful, trendy, expensive embroidered shirts – cool.

Cool and the fact that in 1997 Ukrainian Fashion Week was the first prêt-à-porter Fashion Week in Eastern Europe with format, consistent to international standards and the schedule, inscribed in the world’s fashion schedule.

Cool, that during 18 years our Fashion Week has evolved in many directions: there were interesting inter-seasonal projects, the number of designers participating, cultural program becomes more saturated each season – exhibitions, installations, performances, music videos and movies. And all this at the intersection of art and fashion, the ukrainian fashion.

During 18 years our Fashion Week has evolved in many directions

Cool, that besides the Ukrainian Fashion Week, Ukrainian Fashion develops on the international and regional levels. Our Daria Shapovalova in 2014 entered the list of 500 most influential people in the fashion world, and our Anton Belinsky in 2015 was among the 26 finalists of the LVMH prize. A range of international competitions and exhibitions, boutiques and showrooms, which are attended by Ukrainian designers, expanding with each season.

All of these achievements are even more valuable on the background of the political and economic development of Ukraine – all our fashion based only on the talent and enthusiasm of the people, “bitten by the fashion”. This definition I have borrowed from Andre Tan – the most popular Ukrainian designer.

“Bitten by the fashion” we fanatically do things we love and we do not care about all the difficulties and circumstances. Of course, we do not live in the pink lenses and understand that in the foreseeable future, Ukrainian fashion will be not comparable to the French or Italian, but we are developing and we look in the future with hope.

Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk )

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Fashion at Ukraine in 1914 – 1920

In the early twentieth century fashion at Ukrainian lands developed in the context of European trends, which vividly discussed on the pages of Kiev and Lviv, Kharkiv and Odessa newspapers and magazines. But the name “Ukraine” used only to the territory when : Eastern Ukraine was a part of Russia and Westen – a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The events of First World War changed the map of Ukraine and brought Ukrainians a lot of trouble.

The First World War lasted from 1914 till 1918. But in Ukraine fights and riots delayed longer and brought numerous casualties, significant political changes and economic losses. Ukraine became the center of territorial violations by the warring parties: Russia, Austria-Hungary, Poland and Germany – all wanted to grab a piece of our land.

Already in 1914 hostilities took place in Galicia. They launched an offensive Russian army, which occupied Lviv, Chernivtsi, Przemysl and other cities. In 1915 the German counteroffensive and Austro-Hungarian troops pushed Russia, but in early 1916, Russia won again.

1917, due to the Bolshevist revolution in St. Petersburg, Kyiv Central Council proclaimed the establishment of the Ukrainian People’s Republic on the territories, where Ukrainians constitute the majority.

The newspaper “New Council” then published an article “Who is with them”, where the author wrote about the Bolsheviks: “They destroyed churches – historical monuments. Shed the blood of their brethren. Shot in innocent. They beat, abused and tortured prisoners, raped women. Arrested and beat children. Keep people in prisons, nowhere involved, broke freedom of speech, plundered people’s property, unleashed thieves and robbers. Old Kyiv and glorious scene made wild pitch battlefield and, worst of all, – that might cry again on gun streets of Kyiv, and then what will be the heart of Ukraine is scary to thought… “.

1918 in Galicia adopted the manifesto of independence and the creation of Western Ukrainian People’s Republic in Galicia, Bukovina and Transcarpathia (although the real power has not been extended or the entire eastern Galicia or in Transcarpathia). But very soon the Polish troops took Lviv. In late 1918, the Romanian troops entered Chernivets, and in early 1919 Uzhgorod was conquered by Czechoslovak army.

In Kyiv, during thirty-six months, from March 1917 to June 1920, the government has changed fourteen times. Some of the former Kyiv coups were practically bloodless, but others cost the lives of many innocent peoples.

The most significant event of this period was the announcement of the Universal of Ukraine’s unity. But in the end, the Bolsheviks occupied Kyiv. They nationalized private enterprises, including small handicraft shops. Life was under the jurisdiction of the Soviet institutions. Economic, and indeed no prosperity to no avail. Part of the population, unmet new regime, emigrated and Ukraine has lost many prominent scientists, artists, and entrepreneurs. Those, who resigned ahead, waited seven decades of Soviet rule, for which fashion was the old bourgeois relic.

But even that time, despite the terrible events and circumstanses, people had to dress and woman want to look beautiful. Dresses made from curtains, mattress covers, altered dresses from grandmother’s chest, facelift things.

In “Life of Mikhail Bulgakov” T.Lappa recalls: “I went in my single black dress with crepe de chine and panne: altered my former, last year’s coats and skirt.

Forced dull, “dirty” colors, crumpled textures and bagful silhouettes were in vogue then. Any trim or decoration has perceived like a “bourgeois burp” and was condemned.

At the same time in post-war Europe gaining momentum “Golden Twenties” – roared jazz, women cuts their hair, shorted skirts, embroidered their dresses with beads and danced, danced, danced …

Sincerely Yours

Myroslav Melnyk )

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The very best at Kiev Fashion Days ss-2015