Charles Jeffrey Loverboy is one of my favorite young designers. he does not create goods, but artistic images. In the spring-summer 2022 collection, the artist showed bright and mystical images of either shamans or clowns.
Swedish designer Beate Karlsson’s creative director of AVAVAV inhabited borders between fantasy and reality. “My aesthetic is sometimes borderline camp…but without trying to create things that are camp for the sake of camp. My drive is to try to come up with something that makes people feel something new and strong. My biggest passion in terms of innovative fashion is both trying to come up with new silhouettes and being inspired by what I experienced as a child and this monstrous animation world,” says the designer. Karlsson’s spring-summer 2022 collection for AVAVAV is called “Underwater Harmony”.
Sohee Park, known as “Miss Sohee” is the 25-year-old Womenswear Designer. Raised in Seoul and now based in west London, the Central Saint Martins graduate has a taste inspired by trinkets of the past, combined with her signature ultra-feminine panache.
Park translate her sketches from the page into real life to create vibrant silhouettes that she defines as demi-couture. Her first collection, titled ‘The Girl In Full Bloom,’ was inspired by the concept evolution from girl to woman, paralleling the designer’s own transition and her progression from illustration to design.
Shortly after graduating from Central Saint Martins, Park’s gowns were featured on the cover of LOVE Magazine’s, alongside press in British Vogue, Vogue Korea, Vogue Greece, Vogue Singapore, L’officiel, Elle, Vanity Fair and W to name a few.
Miss Sohee continues to explore the craftsmanship and artisanal message. Her fall 2021 couture collection is an intimate ode to childhood holidays spent by the sea with her beloved grandmother. The collection fully corresponds to the successful style of the young designer and, at the same time, is quite original.
VIVIEN CANADAS, WOMENSWEAR, CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS’ MA FASHION COURSE
The conversation around fleeing the big cities for rural locations is more intense than ever, and Vivien Canadas’ graduate collection is reflecting this exact need to escape the city with the project: ‘A sip of fresh air.’
With no previous academic experience in design and a junior position at Maison Martin Margiela under his belt, Canadas embarked on the ‘human adventure’ of the MA. Working from a London flat, Vivien and two of his classmates, Lucile Guilmard and Ru-yenn Kwok, followed a 15-hour workday, 7 days a week, with military discipline.
The designer spent every minute looking at mundane objects and using them as the starting point for his draping process, which took place on his own body. A trumpet became a pair of trousers, a tortellini pasta became a bag, and the collection became a metaphor for looking at things differently – a sip of fresh air into the rigid outlook linked to city living. Canadas’ draping process was based on the ancient pattern cutting technique of focusing on the geometric shape of a circle. Documenting our relationship with the natural elements by subverting traditional Haute Couture methods, the designer captures the movement of a garment caught in a storm and developed ‘trompe l’oeil’ headpieces that resemble wet hair, bridging the tradition of crafts with the modernity of fresh designs.
In 2016 his graduate collection won the H&M Design Award, in 2018 Queen Elizabeth II attended Richard Quinn’s Autumn/Winter 2018 runway show at London Fashion Week to inaugurate him Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Also in 2018 designer took British Fashion Award as Emerging Talent Women’s Wear.
Paris-based label Botter, winner of the 2018 Hyères fashion festival, was found by the Caribbean origins designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh.
Rushemy Botter was born on Curaçao and have lived a big part of his life in Amsterdam. He applied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, where was mentored by Walter van Beirendonck and in his master year by Dirk van Saene.
Along the way he was lucky to have won a few awards, in his second academy year he won the prize of the most promising student. In his third year he has won the IFF (International Fragrances & Flavours) awards. He presented his collection during New York Fashion Week.
With his Master collection he is launching the Botter brand together with his partner Lisi Herrebrugh, who has been working together with him on the background during his studies. Lisi Herrebrugh have studied at Amsterdam Fashion Institute and graduated Cum Laude. During her studies she interned at the atelier of Viktor & Rolf, where she developed her technical skills.
Botter designes find them selves looking back at their Caribbean roots. Their style is elegant and have a poetic feel.
Quinten Mestdagh is the graduate of the Antwerp Academy. For his 2017 Graduating collection designer was inspired by ripped up publicity panels in the Parisian subway and his “love and passion for fashion photography and imagery translated through a strong graphic identity.” The result was a playful and colourful collection.
In his interview Quinten Mestdagh says, that the starting point for the collection was the concept that showed the power and strength of fashion photography and fashion imagery. The designer have been attracted to highly stylized and iconic fashion images in magazines and advertisements and they were the main inspiration for starting the collection.
At the Paris metro stations the advertisement posters was ripped off and seeing these ripped advertisements, Quinten create the idea of an act of aggression on a beautiful picture, a kind of disruption of an image.
Quinten Mestdagh make collages and 3D paper compositions. Glossy pictures of women’s faces are disrupted by paper rips and shreds resembling the damaged advertisements, creating a tension and roughness in contrast to the beauty showcased in fashion photography.
The shapes of the Quinten Mestdagh clothing are clean and architectural. They had an elegance of mid-century couture gowns, but also a kind of static and strong feeling that worked really well with the impact of the prints.
The designer used trompe l’oeil effects by printing the paper collages on different fabrics. This way, it has the effect and lightness of paper but the fabrics have enough stiffness and structure to hold the shapes. He also worked with pleating in full skirts where the two pictures are fused together to recreate the feeling of rotating billboards.
Most of the women in the prints are fashion icons of the 50’s and 60’s like Penelope Tree. Quinten placed them next to contemporary models like Karen Elson to get the contrast between beauty ideals and tendencies from then and now.
Aristides Vanis is London based Greek designer. Having background in theatrical costume and cinema, Aristides created unique and eye catching prints for clothes. Caricatures, animals and food was the main inspiration of his creations his 2014 graduate MA collection.
Lviv Fashion Week is one of the best fashion events in Ukraine. The last FW 2016 season held April 24 – 27. Off schedule shows include collections by Natalia Ligorova, Kira Algina, Anton Yaroshchyk. All are young and talanted designers from Belarus.
Natalia Ligorova showed very interesting menswear – good quality and unexpected textiles. It’s a pity, my photoes can’t convey the textures of materials:
Kira Algina showed dynamic black & white urbanistic collection with interesting prints:
The Anton Yaroshchyk’s collection was dedicated to the white crow as a symbol of freedom. This collection was the most imaginative of the three and has beautiful accessories, handmade by Anton himself:
Read also about the most beatiful collection at Lviv Fashion Week: