Sohee Park, known as “Miss Sohee” is the 25-year-old Womenswear Designer. Raised in Seoul and now based in west London, the Central Saint Martins graduate has a taste inspired by trinkets of the past, combined with her signature ultra-feminine panache.
Park translate her sketches from the page into real life to create vibrant silhouettes that she defines as demi-couture. Her first collection, titled ‘The Girl In Full Bloom,’ was inspired by the concept evolution from girl to woman, paralleling the designer’s own transition and her progression from illustration to design.
Shortly after graduating from Central Saint Martins, Park’s gowns were featured on the cover of LOVE Magazine’s, alongside press in British Vogue, Vogue Korea, Vogue Greece, Vogue Singapore, L’officiel, Elle, Vanity Fair and W to name a few.
Miss Sohee continues to explore the craftsmanship and artisanal message. Her fall 2021 couture collection is an intimate ode to childhood holidays spent by the sea with her beloved grandmother. The collection fully corresponds to the successful style of the young designer and, at the same time, is quite original.
Jil Sander has collaborated with Joel Meyerowitz for its Autumn/Winter 2021 campaign. The fashion house, led by Lucie and Luke Meier, invited the photographer to capture the latest collection on location from his home in Tuscany. The result is a series of cinematic images shot in a variety of everyday locations, from low-lit gas stations to shop fronts.
VIVIEN CANADAS, WOMENSWEAR, CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS’ MA FASHION COURSE
The conversation around fleeing the big cities for rural locations is more intense than ever, and Vivien Canadas’ graduate collection is reflecting this exact need to escape the city with the project: ‘A sip of fresh air.’
With no previous academic experience in design and a junior position at Maison Martin Margiela under his belt, Canadas embarked on the ‘human adventure’ of the MA. Working from a London flat, Vivien and two of his classmates, Lucile Guilmard and Ru-yenn Kwok, followed a 15-hour workday, 7 days a week, with military discipline.
The designer spent every minute looking at mundane objects and using them as the starting point for his draping process, which took place on his own body. A trumpet became a pair of trousers, a tortellini pasta became a bag, and the collection became a metaphor for looking at things differently – a sip of fresh air into the rigid outlook linked to city living. Canadas’ draping process was based on the ancient pattern cutting technique of focusing on the geometric shape of a circle. Documenting our relationship with the natural elements by subverting traditional Haute Couture methods, the designer captures the movement of a garment caught in a storm and developed ‘trompe l’oeil’ headpieces that resemble wet hair, bridging the tradition of crafts with the modernity of fresh designs.
In 2018 legendary Roman designer Roberto Capucci shares his extraordinary vision in an exhibition of imaginary male dancers.
The drawings of Roberto Capucci are a sensational surprise from the quiet designer, who first took his architectural outfits from Rome to Florence and in the 1960s had a Paris atelier near Coco Chanel. Since the new millennium, he has concentrated on compelling male drawings focused on ballet. They form an exhibition, “Dionysian Capucci: Theatre Designs”, at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Compared to the spare, architectural tailoring worn in the past by glamorous clients including Marilyn Monroe and Maria Callas, these are fantasies soaring into flight. The colours alone are painterly mixes of plum with orange, shocking pink and yellow, green, purple, blue, orange and red. That conjunction of shades is within a single outfit – if that is the word to describe fabric coiled in exotic swathes around hips and thighs. Capucci explains that he did not really focus on Dionysius and his metamorphoses, but that his drawings are more of a development of what he has created since his childhood.
“When I draw, I think of the future,” Capucci says. “There are transgressive costumes, with geometric exactness. And when I think of fashion, I think of art without adjectives.”
Jeanne Detallante is a Parisian illustrator and visual artists living in Brussels. She has developed a highly personal and instantly recognizable style over the years, which is equally dazzling and grotesque. Her subjects are often drawn from myths, fairy-tales and high-end fashion magazines. Her aesthetic ranges from the refined to the grotesque.
Jeanne Detallante is not only a fashion illustrator, but she also has many collaborations with leading fashion designers and magazines. The illustrator developed prints, decorations, and advertising materials for Prada and her line MIU MIU.
Prints for fabrics are an interesting area of illustrator’s creativity and Jeanne Detallante’s prints are bright and witty.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus FW 2021/2022 collection name is “Darkroom” and it’s inspired by “dark place where not only the visual but all six senses come into play”. “Just as photographs reveal their images in the darkroom, so can creation, development, and progress, we believe, also come out of darkness.” – explained Rei Kawakubo. In this collection Kawakubo showed a lot of deconstructive jackets crossed with coats – traditional for the brand Comme des Garçons, but quite fresh and wearable for men’s fashion.
The only thing that was too radical for a modern man in the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus FW 2021/2022 collection was high – heeled shoes, in the style of women’s shoes of the 1920s.
François-Hubert Drouais (1727-1775) belonged to a dynasty of French painters that included his father, Hubert Drouais (1699-1767), and his son, Jean Germain (1763-1788). During his relatively short career, he established himself as one of the leading portrait painters of the age of Louis XV. He mastered the rules governing portrait painting in the ultra-refined society with graceful poses, sumptuous costumes, richly and decorated interiors. It became very fashionable in the Paris of the late 1750s and the 1760s to have one’s portrait painted by François-Hubert Drouais. His art epitomizes the rococo at the moment of its decline.