VIVIEN CANADAS, WOMENSWEAR, CENTRAL
SAINT MARTINS’ MA FASHION COURSE
The conversation around fleeing the big cities for rural locations is more intense than ever, and Vivien Canadas’ graduate collection is reflecting this exact need to escape the city with the project: ‘A sip of fresh air.’
With no previous academic experience in design and a junior position at Maison Martin Margiela under his belt, Canadas embarked on the ‘human adventure’ of the MA. Working from a London flat, Vivien and two of his classmates, Lucile Guilmard and Ru-yenn Kwok, followed a 15-hour workday, 7 days a week, with military discipline.
The designer spent every minute looking at mundane objects and using them as the starting point for his draping process, which took place on his own body. A trumpet became a pair of trousers, a tortellini pasta became a bag, and the collection became a metaphor for looking at things differently – a sip of fresh air into the rigid outlook linked to city living. Canadas’ draping process was based on the ancient pattern cutting technique of focusing on the geometric shape of a circle. Documenting our relationship with the natural elements by subverting traditional Haute Couture methods, the designer captures the movement of a garment caught in a storm and developed ‘trompe l’oeil’ headpieces that resemble wet hair, bridging the tradition of crafts with the modernity of fresh designs.
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