FASHION-SUPREMATISM

There are a lot of arts, but art of creation is the only one.

Suprematism is the primacy of pure feeling in creative art.

Kazimir Malevich

The term “Suprematism” refers to an abstract art, based upon “the supremacy of pure artistic feeling” instead of visual depiction of objects. It focuses on basic geometric forms, painted in a limited range of colours.

Suprematism as an art movement, was founded around 1913 – 1915 by soviet painter Kazimir Malevich (who was born to a Polish family near Kiev). The origin of suprematism was cubo-futurist art movement, which proliferate new artistic forms in painting, poetry and theatre as well as a revival of interest in the traditional folk art of Ukraine and Russia.

Malevich writes:

Art no longer cares to serve the state and religion, it no longer wishes to illustrate the history of manners, it wants to have nothing further to do with the object, as such, and believes that it can exist, in and for itself, without “things”.

So, Suprematism does not embrace a humanist philosophy which places man at the center of the universe. It transmits of what for Malevich was the world’s only true reality – the absolute non-objectivity. Although Malevich himself announced the end of Suprematism in 1922, we can see the signs Suprematism in different kinds of art-practices till nowadays.  Moreover, in 1923, Kazimir Malevich designed the project of a «suprematist» dress.

 

Suprematism-inspired collections was showed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (Autumn/Winter 1992-1993), Martine Sitbon (Spring/Summer 1998, Spring/Summer 2008), Wunderkind (Fall/Winter 2009-2010),  Peter Pilotto (Fall/Winter 2011-2012), Roksanda Ilincic (Resort 2013), Marni (Spring/Summer 2014) and many others.

In Ukrainian fashion also was a lot of collections, inspired by Malevich’s art: Victor Anisimov (2003),  Fedor Vozianov (2008), Yasya Minochkina (Fall/Winter 2014), Polina Veller (2014).

Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk )

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UKRAINIAN BEST FASHION AWARDS 2014

On September 9 the 5th Ceremony of the BEST FASHION AWARDS in Ukraine was held.

The BEST FASHION AWARDS are the only professional awards in Ukrainian fashion. It was started by Ukrainian Fashion Week at 2010 for and awarding the achievements of fashion designers and public leaders, who create a positive international image of the Ukraine.

The BEST FASHION AWARDS are determined every year –  a group of Experts evaluate collections of two fashion seasons. This year I was the one of 39 Experts: journalists, fashion critics, buyers and of public leaders. For me it was great honor and great responsibility. The only point of my choice, that coincided with the objective opinion of most experts, was the “Best Menswear Designer”: when I saw the F/W 2014-2015 collection of SASHA KANEVSKIY, I want to have every piece of it in my wardrobe.

The most important nomination – “Breakthrough of the year” – won young and very talented IVAN FROLOV.

The BEST FASHION AWARD “For Significant Contribution into Development of Ukrainian Fashion” quite deservedly got KATYA OSADCHA – one of the best TV-reporters in Ukraine, who represent our country all around the world.

I heartily hope that Ukraine will be in peace and prosperity, that Ukrainian fashion will develop and that next BEST FASHION AWARDS will reveal many new fashion talents.

Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk )

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Vyshyvanka from Lviv (Вишиванка зі Львова)

Vyshyvanka (embroidered shirt) is the most important item of Ukrainian traditional costume. The story of vyshyvanka goes back centuries. The ancient historian Herodotus notes that Scythian apparel was decorated with embroidery. This garment has withstood the test of time and continues to represent Ukrainian people while adapting to the modernity.

The embroidery of vyshyvanka  is rich and varied. The motives of ornaments, composition, colours were handed down from generation to generation. All this varies depending on the region of origin. In ancient times people even could guess what village a person came from just from the embroidery on the vyshyvanka.

The original meaning of ornaments and colors on vyshyvanka was symbolic  –  it protects the wearer from evil and sin. Now people think about the meaning of embroidery much less, vyshyvanka has become a stylish clothes. Today you can see it on the streets, on the catwalks and in the halls of fashion weeks and fashion days across the Ukraine. The most popular fashion designer, who present vyshyvankas in her collections is Roksolana Bogutska from Lviv.

Lviv is a cultural center of Westen Ukraine, where vyshyvanka is extremely popular. Wearing traditional Ukrainian embroidered shirts, people demonstrate their love to the Ukraine and the honour of it’s traditions.

Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk )

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The art of fashion at GOGOLFEST-2014

Changing our ideas about the usual things is one of the modern art functions. The Ukrainian art festival Gogolfest 2014 (Kiev, September 11 – 21) will present a clothes as an object of art: team of young designers, leading by Polina Veller, will change the way we think about clothes.

Polina Veller is known for her works for the Pechersk Plastic Drama Theatre and Dach Daughters band. The basis of her creative style is the combination of different textures, complicated colours, unusual materials, multistage constructions.

Within Residence at GOGOLFEST-2014, Polina has already conducted a series of workshops on making art costumes using the original techniques: riveting, soldering and stapling. Using vinyl and plastic, artificial grass and mesh, Polina’s team created unusual forms – not always functional, but aesthetically expressive.

According to the organizers’ plans, the best costumes will be presented at the opening сeremony of GOGOLFEST-2014 and other performances during the festival. 

We hope, that such bold creative experiments will help to move our fashion forward. Young Ukrainian fashion must be expressive to present the country internationally. So, with GOGOLFEST everything is just beginning!

For more information, please visit http://gogolfest.org/eng/news

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Top 5 young Ukrainian designers from MODOSLAV

Dedicated то Ukraine’s Independence Day, we asked our favourite young designers about Ukraine

 

Anton Belinskiy established himself at the Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days as one of the most promising and original Ukrainian designers. His creative style is sporty and geometrical, always with  combination of different material textures.

Anton Belinskiy: Ukraine is my Homeland

 

Masha Reva has winning a lot of designer’s competitions, an intern at the New York Thakoon studio and at the Belgian designer Walter Van Beyrendonk. She is one of the most promising Ukrainian designers in a creative and commercial aspect.

 

Masha Reva: Ukraine – is firstly my family, our cottage at Bugaz and, of course, it’s  Odessa. This unique place of power where I always come back, full of energy that remind me that family is the most valuable thing.

 

Jean Gritsfeldt is the perfect model for his own collections. He boldly quoted by famous designers and works on the edge of kitsch and outrageous. He is one of the “young favorites” at Ukrainian fashion week.

Jean Gritsfeldt: Ukraine is my home

 

Ivan Frolov‘s motto is «INTELLIGENT PROVOCATION AND SEX”. His gothic and androgenic collections often contain elements of BDSM-suits. The designer uses a lot of hand work and collaborating with musicians.

 

Ivan Frolov: I’ll think about “What is Ukrain for me”, becouse It’s not so easy to tell.

 

Lviv artist and designer Olya Steblack inspired by both Ukrainian and international art, espessially surrealism. Her spring-summer 2014 collection has a clear social message against the war, in which Ukraine was involved recently.

Olya Steblack: Ukraine – this is my love, love to the Carpathians, near which I has grew up, love to fields and steppes, that’s not just my eyes rejoiced to extremely beautiful, sincere and dedicated people; love to the culture, which builds a rich and ambiguous ethnicity, love emergency language and Ukrainian songs. Unfortunately, recent events shows us that Ukraine is a country of so called “Third World” and it’s not strong enough, so we see that part of it become a ground to show off a brutal power to the “Lords of the weapon”. But this will cease very soon. Ukraine will win 🙂

 

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Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk

INSPIRED BY UKRAINE: Eduard Nasyrov & Hanna Sobachko

It was fall-winter  2007-2008 collection by Eduard Nasyrov for TM“Stolichny”.

I make some collages with compositions of Hannah Sobachko (Hanna Sobachko-Shostak) – genious Ukrainian folk artist, who was a famous embroiderer at 1920-th and later become a master of decorative compositions on paper .

 

 

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Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Modoslav )

Inspired by Ukraine: Jean Paul Gaultier

After visiting the Eurovision Song Contest 2005 in Kiev, Jean Paul Gaultier created very beautiful collections in which the influence of traditional Ukrainian costume was very noticeable. So Gaultier’s fall-winter 2005/2006 Haute Couture and spring-summer 2006 pret-a-porter collections were inspired by Ukraine.

The guest of honor at Jean Paul Gaultier fall-winter 2005/2006 Haute Couture was Kateryna Yushchenko, the wife of  the president of the Ukraine. Every outfin at that show has Ukrainian name and all sectors in the show hall were named like Ukrainian regions.

Jean Paul Gaultier spring-summer 2006 pret-a-porter collection was rich of ethno elements, espessially embroidered blouses (vyshyvanka – the Ukrainian traditional clothing ).

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Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Modoslav )

INSPIRED BY UKRAINE: John Galliano

Flashback: John Galliano’s fall-winter 2009/2010 collection was inspired by traditional Ukrainian costume. It was very fresh look at our ethnic culture and very creative work with forms, cut and decoration. The fashion journalists have called this collection “The frosen bride”, becouse Galliano styled traditional ukrainian headwear like a veil & embroidered shirt (vyshyvanka) like a wedding dress.

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Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Modoslav

Haute Couture fall 2014/2015: High drama of modern fashion

5 days, 45 collections – from 6 to 10 July 2014 in Paris held a full week of Haute Couture.

In the Couture collections of last season the most innovation was “Haute sneakers”: “Wow, – I think – Soon Haute Couture will be easy and convenient.” But what about the fashion-art? What about Christian Dior with his corsets and dresses, wich weighs 20 kg? After all, he revived interest to the Haute Couture at the time of the post-war depression.

In the depressed 1990s Haute Couture was resuscitated by John Galliano, which was a “fresh breath” then. But the spirit of this breath has weathered.

Galliano’s successor – Raf Simons – also genius, but of a different kind. His fashion is far from theatrical aesthetics. Haute Couture collections of Chanel, Gaultier, Valentino and Martin Margiella for several seasons looks like if not new, but the continuation of the previous collections.

From Armani Prive we did not expect any revelations. Donatella? Do not tell me! She just has changed Gaga to Lopez, that’s all impressions after the Versace’s show. And in the celebrity-marketing Versace was overtaken by Gaultier with Conchita Wurst and by Dior with the sweet couple of Pen-Theron (sounds like the medicine).

Ullyana Serheenko can’t come out of the maze of Russian ballet fairy tales – a good foundation for the DNA of the brand, but not so fresh topic. From other collections of so-called “Nouvelle Couture” the most promising for me is Dice Kayek. And, of course, I was pleasantly surprised by revived house Vionnet: strict lines, corporate oblique cut, novelty, originality.

This can not be said about the new collection of Schiaparelli – it looks as if Elsa by herself with the height of surrealism spat on changing new trends and new consumer needs.

But the Haute Couture has losing it’s function of the ” ideas laboratory”. Fashion houses have begun to pay attention to commercial prospects of Haute Couture: sales grows thanks to Russian and Chinese millionaires.

We also has millionaires in Ukraine (not all of them escaped to Russia) , but is there any hope to have the Ukrainian Haute Couture? Let’s hope!

Sinсerely Yours

Myroslav Modoslav )

Читайте цей пост українською за посиланням:

http://modoslav.blogspot.com/2014/07/haute-couture-20142015.html

 

Fashion and style, fashion theory & hystory