Архів категорії: rococo

Rococo costumes in the art of François-Hubert Drouais

Marquise de Caumont La Force

François-Hubert Drouais (1727-1775) belonged to a dynasty of French painters that included his father, Hubert Drouais (1699-1767), and his son, Jean Germain (1763-1788). During his relatively short career, he established himself as one of the leading portrait painters of the age of Louis XV. He mastered the rules governing portrait painting in the ultra-refined society with graceful poses, sumptuous costumes, richly and decorated interiors. It became very fashionable in the Paris of the late 1750s and the 1760s to have one’s portrait painted by François-Hubert Drouais. His art epitomizes the rococo at the moment of its decline. 

Madame Sophie de France, 1762
Lady Amelia Darcy (1754-1784) 
The Marquise d’Aigurandes, 1759
Madame de Pompadour 
Louis XV by François-Hubert Drouais

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Rococo Fashion

Rococo fashion

The Rococo period (from about 1730 – 1790) was a time of fashion excess, emanating from France around Europe. The name “rococo” has been assigned to the subtle changes in the art and dress styles of the period from about 1720 to 1770. Rococo styles are characterized by smaller scale but still curvilinear lines; more delicate ornamentation; and Asian, Gothic, and floral motifs.

Rococo textile

The three-piece suit became the predominant component of men’s clothing. Throughout the eighteenth century, men wore knee breeches, a vest, and an outer coat. When coat, vest, and breeches were made of the same fabric, the outfit was called a “ditto suit.”

Rococo fashion
Rococo fashion

Rococo women’s dresses reflected the curvilinear forms. The shape of skirts changed gradually. After the early eighteenth century, when loose, full sacque gowns were popular, the silhouette altered and bodices fitted the front of the body closely. Necklines were low, square, or round. Skirts were held out by supporting hoops (called paniers in France) that were first cone-shaped, then domeshaped, next narrow from front to back and wide from
side-to-side. By the period from 1740 to 1760, skirts were enormously wide (as much as 2 ¾ yards). Double doors helped to accommodate the passage of women in these panier-supported dresses, and small tables often had
raised edges to prevent objects from being swept from them by a passing skirt.

Rococo fashion
Rococo fashion
Rococo fashion
Stocking garters

From 1760, hair was piled on top of the head, near the forehead. Initially dark hair was fashionable, then it became fashionable to powder hair with starch in order to make it appear lighter. The hair was initially smeared with pomade and then powdered with a white, grey or pastel shade of powder.  As the height of the hair increased, it became necessary to affix a pad of horsehair or sometimes a wire structure on top of the head, with the subject’s hair being swept up over the top of this. The creations grew in size and were also often adorned with other decorations, such as pastoral scenes, ships in full-sail, or a windmill that turned. 

Rococo fashion
Collage by Myroslav Melnyk with Mela Koehler illustratio

Rococo fashion inspires many modern designers and we can notice this style in collections of Chanel, Dior, Westwood, Moschino and others.

Rococo fashion
Rococo fashion
Fashion rococo, Moschino
Nabil Nayal FW 2019
#dolcegabbana #marieantoinette#modoslav #collage #fashioncollage

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Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun (French, 1755 – 1842), Madame du Barry, 1782, oil on canvas, Corcoran Collection (William A. Clark Collection) 2014.136.36