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Hi, I'm Ukrainian fashion blogger Mуroslav Melnyk. I'm a Ph.D. in "The theory and history of Art", I'm also the author of the study guide "Fashion Industry".

Illustrator and designer “Yoon” Phannapast Taychamaythakool

Illustration by “Yoon” Phannapast Taychamaythakool

Thai illustrator and designer “Yoon” Phannapast Taychamaythakool created many ars pieces, murals for Nescafe, campaign for Gucci and images for children’s books.

“Yoon” Phannapast Taychamaythakool for Nescafe
“Yoon” Phannapast Taychamaythakool for Nescafe
Phannapast graduated from Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok, Thailand with a Fashion Design degree. After she graduated, she worked with Thai fashion brands, while at the same time, continuing her love for drawing and handcrafts. She has reached international fame following her collaborations with global fashion brand Gucci.

“Yoon” Phannapast Taychamaythakool also illustrated magazines and books. She uses different personalities of animals to represent her feelings at the time. 

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“Yoon” Phannapast Taychamaythakool

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy ss 2022

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy ss 2022

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy is one of my favorite young designers. he does not create goods, but artistic images. In the spring-summer 2022 collection, the artist showed bright and mystical images of either shamans or clowns.

Look also: Костюми в Музеї Бенакі (Costumes at the Benaki Museum)

Costumes at the Benaki Museum

Funny shoes by AVAVAV spring 2022

AVAVAV spring-summer 2022

Swedish designer Beate Karlsson’s creative director of AVAVAV inhabited borders between fantasy and reality. “My aesthetic is sometimes borderline camp…but without trying to create things that are camp for the sake of camp. My drive is to try to come up with something that makes people feel something new and strong. My biggest passion in terms of innovative fashion is both trying to come up with new silhouettes and being inspired by what I experienced as a child and this monstrous animation world,” says the designer. Karlsson’s spring-summer 2022 collection for AVAVAV is called “Underwater Harmony”.

Look also: Кумедні капелюхи (Funny hats)

UKRAINIAN ILLUSTRATOR VICTOR TKACHENKO

Victor Tkachenko

Victor Tkachenko, born in 1960 in Ukrainian Kryvyi Rih, is an artist currently living in Toronto, Canada.  Working primarily with acrylic on canvas, Tkachenko displays a mastery of line and colour through purposeful brushwork. In most of Tkachenko’s works persist feelings of melancholy, mystery, and wonder.

Victor Tkachenko’s illustrations

Look also: Fashion illustrations by André Edouard Marty

Charles James

Charles James

James, who was born in England in 1906. At the age of nineteen, James opened his first milliner shop in Chicago, using the name of “Charles Boucheron”, as his father forbade him to use that of James.

“Charles Boucheron”

 In 1936, he established the company Charles James (London) Ltd., using his own name officially for the first time. He showed his first collection in the French capital in 1937. That same year, he created a one-of-a-kind white satin quilted jacket described by Salvador Dalí as “the first soft sculpture”.

James moved permanently to New York in 1939 where he established Charles James, Inc. Later Charles James becomes best known for his ballgowns and highly structured aesthetic. James describes fashion as “what is rare, correctly proportioned and, though utterly discrete, libidinous.” James is in the details as well as in the larger shapes. He grants every aspect of his garments — seams, draping, fabric, color — a distinct autonomy, and you see them for themselves and as part of a whole. 

James retired in 1958. He died in 1978 of bronchial pneumonia. James inspired many designers, including Christian Dior, who said he was “the greatest talent of my generation”. Since 1982, Charles’ works have been exhibited in the best museums in the world.

Look also: Костюми в Музеї Бенакі (Greek Costumes at the Athen’s Benaki Museum)

Charles James

Dolce & Gabbana presented their new Alta Moda collection at Venice

Dame Helen Mirren, Jennifer Lopez at Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda in Venice

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana presented their latest Alta Moda collection in a venue that has, until now, never hosted a fashion show: St Mark’s Square. They explained their choice of the location: “For us, Venice represents the perfect harmony of opposites that attract: it is romantic and sensual, melancholic and joyful, rational and visionary, luminous and nocturnal, sacred and profane, dark and golden. It is the city of Casanova, of the Carnival, of the historic regatta on the Grand Canal.”

St Mark’s Square

The brand guests included Dame Helen Mirren, Jennifer Lopez, Sean Combs, Doja Cat, Kris Jenner, Kourtney Kardashian, Ciara, Monica Bellucci, Christian Bale, and Kitty Spencer were all there, each dressed in Dolce & Gabbana. The label also cast children of some of the most well-known guests: Jessie James and D’Lila Star, the daughters Sean Combs, Monica Bellucci’s daughter Deva, Christian Bale’s daughter Emmeline and Heidi Klum’s daughter Leni.

There were over 100 different looks at the runway. The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show was a celebration of high craftsmanship, with all pieces rendered in luscious silks, brocades, velvets, glass and crystals, embroidery and special fabrics. Sequined dresses and sculptural gold elements were reminiscent of the Venice’s architecture, and some things were decorated with printed photos of views of te city.

The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda collection, as well as the show in Venice with star guests, is quite in the spirit of the brand’s DNA – pretentious, but nothing new or interesting from the point of view of art of costume.

Look also: Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda in Venice

Versace for theatre

Versace for theatre

Versace’s style was quite theatrical even in ready-to-wear collections. Versace has a lot of works for the theater, he actively collaborated with choreographers Maurice Bejard, Roland Petit, John Cox, William Forsyth.

In 1982  Versace undertakes his first collaboration with the theatre world, designing the costumes for Richard Strauss’s ballet Josephs legende (The Legend of Joseph) for La Scala in Milan. He does this once again for Gustav Mahler’s Lieb und Leid (Love and Sorrow). In 1984 – for Donizetti’s “Don Pasquale”, Bejard’s “Dionysus”, in 1987 for” Solomea”, in 1990 for “Capriccio” with graphics, based on abstracts by Sonia Delaunay.

Versace for theatre
Versace for theatre

Versace in black and white is the closest to elegance, there are no excessively shining rhinestones in all the colors of the rainbow and intense color combinations.

Versace for theatre

Of course, it is interesting to watch how the sketch turns into a costume, because when you look at the drawing, you figure out how the fashion designer will embody it, and then you see either a silk painting or embroidery and applique.

Versace for theatre
Versace for theatre
Versace for theatre

Look also: Готьє для театру

Versace for theatre

Fashion Week is dying

From Ukrainian Fashion Week

Fashion Week is dying. This is a global trend that is also evident in Ukraine: in 2018, Kiev Fashion Days disappeared, and the scale of Ukrainian Fashion Week is decreasing every year. We’re keeping up with the world.

The concept of “Fashion Week” is relatively simple: designers present collections nine months before the season. Buyers buy their favorite collections and sell them in stores, and journalists describe what they saw “in all its glory” – so that consumers who are hungry for new products lick their lips, rush to stores and buy, buy, buy. Nine months is a well-established time limit for replicating collections and logistics. But this was the case in the “old world” – before the internet era.

In Ukraine, Fashion Week began in 1997 as an event that gathers fashionistas at one time and in one place, providing designers with an auditorium, lighting, sound and security. There were few designers, even fewer buyers and fashion journalists, but there was a buyer-rich after the Bandit nineties, exhausted by the Soviet deficit, without any special claims to taste and style – someone who wanted “designer” and was hungry for consumer patriotism.

Sergei Byzou FW 2000 at Ukrainian Fashion Week

The layer of buyers in Ukraine was almost superfluous – things were easily given away from the catwalk, for an additional payment, the designers even promised not to sew such a thing to anyone else.

Without buyers and mass replication, the fashion age gradually turned into a bloated and outdated Vanity Fair – a parade of narcissism that developed outside the industry. Since 1998, we have been talking about the “Ukrainian fashion industry” as “in the process of formation”. It’s still there.

The industry is not growing, but the “parade of narcissism” is also on the decline – the “Old guests of the show” have aged and look tragic and pathetic.

If everything is so sad, then is it necessary that the Fashion Week in Ukraine continues to exist? For whom (what) is it now? Does organizing Fashion Week match the way people buy clothes today?

It is not difficult to imagine that outside of shows and fashion glosses, there is a different, more real and more relevant world. The internet has changed the perception of not only fashion, but also society, changed self-perception.

DZHUS at Ukrainian Fashion Week

The fashion system of seasons and full seasonal collections is a serious financial burden for the designer. In addition to production costs (on average, you need to submit 35 looks), you need to pay for participation in the fashion week (and this is tens of thousands), as well as the work of models, stylists, makeup artists, photographers.In return, you get to content, which freshness and relevance fall hourly – photos and videos, some coverage in the press (which in Ukraine, for the most part, promotes only “their own”).

This whole system can be circumvented by investing money gradually and directly, periodically creating information guides around individual goods (looks). You don’t need to be present at Fashion Week – you pay for articles in Targeted Media, attract suitable opinion leaders, come up with promotions, collaborate with artists, and so on. In Ukraine, there are many examples of brands that entered the international market without showing any collection at Ukrainian Fashion Week (the most famous Vita Kin). Many “permanent and unchanging” participants miss seasons, or even completely leave the game (Podolyan, Gres, Zalevsky, Anisimov and not only them).

Of course, for” Dreamers in Rose-Colored Glasses”, Fashion Week is still an “Event”. Young designers dream of participating, hoping that after that “Grits from the sky” will fall on them. “Fashionistas” still take selfies against the background of banners, considering themselves cool. But does Fashion Week succeed in its main function – moving money from the pockets of customers to the wallets of designers?

Ksenia Schneider at Ukrainian Fashion Week

In recent years, not so much designers (manufacturers of a fashion product) as Ukrainian Fashion Week (an intermediary between the manufacturer and the buyer) receive taxpayer support in the form of State injections. Can this be considered as an investment in the development of the industry? To answer this question, you need to know when large amounts of taxes will return to the state budget of Ukraine from the additional increase in the profits of the supported organization (return on investment).

Have you ever heard that spending public money in Ukraine is treated as an investment?

As for consumers, two global trends also prevent them from spending money on rags. The first “Bees vs honey” is ecological fashion. Most of the expositions of the latest Ukrainian Fashion Week are some kind of upzycling, recycling and “other second – hand”. For me, this is an assumption that re-stitching garbage reduces the overall blockage. The logic is there: instead of throwing out the trash right away, you will play with it and these amusements will save you from buying new junk. It’s fashionable, but it’s anti-fashion, the “death of fashion” as a constant update.

From Ukrainian Fashion Week

Read also: USING OF TRADITIONAL UKRAINIAN COSTUME ELEMENTS FOR CREATING MODERN FASHION COLLECTIONS

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta was born in the Dominican Republic in 1932. However, the country of Spain was his earliest style muse.  At the age of 18, he moved to Madrid to attend the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando. As a student, de la Renta immersed himself in the culture of
Spain and, to make extra money, took up fashion sketching.

It was also in Madrid where he first became a fashion illustrator for the couture house of Cristobal Balenziaga in 1957.

Oscar de la Renta

Arriving in Manhattan in 1963, he worked for Elizabeth Arden and Jane Derby before going it alone, quickly became part of the fabric of the city’s fashion and social scenes.

Oscar de la Renta

De la Renta began his own signature ready-to-wear label in 1965. His designs were ladylike without being stiff, and he could whip up an airy summer dress with the same facility as he could a red carpet gown.

Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta

The label ” Oscar de la Renta” was an immediate hit thanks to De la Renta’s use of colour, his vibrant prints and romantic rendering of Spanish and Caribbean silhouettes. He said: “I fell madly for Spain, its people, its landscape and life in Madrid. The sights, sounds and drama of Spanish culture — bullfights, flamenco and the most festive celebrations such as the traditional ferias of Seville and fallas of Valencia — were burned forever in my imagination, defining my own aesthetic.”

Oscar de la Renta

Highly respected by his contemporaries, de la Renta served as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America from 1973 to 1976, and from 1986 to 1988. In 1990 the CFDA gave him its Lifetime Achievement Award. He also won the CFDA Womanswear Designer of the Year Award in 2000.

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta became the creative director of Balmain Haute Couture in 1992. Between 1993 and 2002 he designed the haute couture collections, becoming the first Dominican to design for a French couture house.

By the late ’90s and early 2000s, his work became the preferred wear of American first ladies. He dressed first lady Nancy Reagan in the 1980s, and then provided the gowns for inaugural events for both Hillary Clinton in 1997 and Laura Bush in 2005.

Nancy Reagan in the Oscar de la Renta red dress

De la Renta had been diagnosed with cancer during the first decade of the 2000s. He died on October 20, 2014, at the age of 82. His brand continues to function, and his creations are displayed in the best museums in the world.

Look also: ГЕНІАЛЬНО: Сюрреалізм VOGUE PORTUGAL від Rafal Olbinski

Raffaella Carrà – Italian style icon

Dress by Raffaella Carrà

The Italian actress, singer, dancer and TV host died at 78 last month. Born in Bologna in 1943, Raffaella Maria Roberta Pelloni, known as Raffaella Carrà, studied dance and acting, starring first in a few peplum films and appearing in Mark Robson’s “Von Ryan’s Express” (1965).

“Von Ryan’s Express” (1965)

Later she became more famous as a singer, dancer and co-host of programmes on Italy’s state TV Rai. Her songs, dance, music numbers and outfits made history for inspiring freedom, empowering women. At the end of the 1970s Raffaella became very popular in Spain and Latin America. Televisión Española hired her to conduct the live show “Hola Raffaella” between 1992 and 1993. In 2018, the king of Spain made her a dame, “al orden del mérito civil”, for being “an icon of freedom”. Her blonde bob and costumes became her signatures. Raffella Carrà’s myth developed with her wardrobe, created by costume designers who were loyal to her throughout her career – Corrado Colabucci, Luca Sabatelli and Gabriele Mayer. 

Look also: Образ Марлен Дітріх в контексті тенденцій моди

Raffaella Carrà