Архів категорії: costume museum

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta was born in the Dominican Republic in 1932. However, the country of Spain was his earliest style muse.  At the age of 18, he moved to Madrid to attend the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando. As a student, de la Renta immersed himself in the culture of
Spain and, to make extra money, took up fashion sketching.

It was also in Madrid where he first became a fashion illustrator for the couture house of Cristobal Balenziaga in 1957.

Oscar de la Renta

Arriving in Manhattan in 1963, he worked for Elizabeth Arden and Jane Derby before going it alone, quickly became part of the fabric of the city’s fashion and social scenes.

Oscar de la Renta

De la Renta began his own signature ready-to-wear label in 1965. His designs were ladylike without being stiff, and he could whip up an airy summer dress with the same facility as he could a red carpet gown.

Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta

The label ” Oscar de la Renta” was an immediate hit thanks to De la Renta’s use of colour, his vibrant prints and romantic rendering of Spanish and Caribbean silhouettes. He said: “I fell madly for Spain, its people, its landscape and life in Madrid. The sights, sounds and drama of Spanish culture — bullfights, flamenco and the most festive celebrations such as the traditional ferias of Seville and fallas of Valencia — were burned forever in my imagination, defining my own aesthetic.”

Oscar de la Renta

Highly respected by his contemporaries, de la Renta served as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America from 1973 to 1976, and from 1986 to 1988. In 1990 the CFDA gave him its Lifetime Achievement Award. He also won the CFDA Womanswear Designer of the Year Award in 2000.

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta became the creative director of Balmain Haute Couture in 1992. Between 1993 and 2002 he designed the haute couture collections, becoming the first Dominican to design for a French couture house.

By the late ’90s and early 2000s, his work became the preferred wear of American first ladies. He dressed first lady Nancy Reagan in the 1980s, and then provided the gowns for inaugural events for both Hillary Clinton in 1997 and Laura Bush in 2005.

Nancy Reagan in the Oscar de la Renta red dress

De la Renta had been diagnosed with cancer during the first decade of the 2000s. He died on October 20, 2014, at the age of 82. His brand continues to function, and his creations are displayed in the best museums in the world.

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Roberto Capucci for theatre

In 2018 legendary Roman designer Roberto Capucci shares his extraordinary vision in an exhibition of imaginary male dancers.

The drawings of Roberto Capucci are a sensational surprise from the quiet designer, who first took his architectural outfits from Rome to Florence and in the 1960s had a Paris atelier near Coco Chanel. Since the new millennium, he has concentrated on compelling male drawings focused on ballet. They form an exhibition, “Dionysian Capucci: Theatre Designs”, at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Compared to the spare, architectural tailoring worn in the past by glamorous clients including Marilyn Monroe and Maria Callas, these are fantasies soaring into flight. The colours alone are painterly mixes of plum with orange, shocking pink and yellow, green, purple, blue, orange and red. That conjunction of shades is within a single outfit – if that is the word to describe fabric coiled in exotic swathes around hips and thighs. Capucci explains that he did not really focus on Dionysius and his metamorphoses, but that his drawings are more of a development of what he has created since his childhood.

“When I draw, I think of the future,” Capucci says. “There are transgressive costumes, with geometric exactness. And when I think of fashion, I think of art without adjectives.”

Text from Vogue.

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Rick Owens at Estonian KUMU

Rick Owens at KUMU

Last summer, when I was in Tallin, Estonian avant-rapper Tommy Cash and conceptual fashion designer Rick Owens comes together for “The Pure and the Damned” exhibition at Kumu Art Museum. Owens’ part of exhibition mandating a sartorial exploration between form and function.

Rick Owens at KUMU
Rick Owens at KUMU
Rick Owens at KUMU
Rick Owens at KUMU
Rick Owens at KUMU
Rick Owens at KUMU
Rick Owens at KUMU

Photos © Myroslav Melnyk

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Rick Owens at KUMU