Архів категорії: Ukrainian Fashion Week

Fashion Week is dying

From Ukrainian Fashion Week

Fashion Week is dying. This is a global trend that is also evident in Ukraine: in 2018, Kiev Fashion Days disappeared, and the scale of Ukrainian Fashion Week is decreasing every year. We’re keeping up with the world.

The concept of “Fashion Week” is relatively simple: designers present collections nine months before the season. Buyers buy their favorite collections and sell them in stores, and journalists describe what they saw “in all its glory” – so that consumers who are hungry for new products lick their lips, rush to stores and buy, buy, buy. Nine months is a well-established time limit for replicating collections and logistics. But this was the case in the “old world” – before the internet era.

In Ukraine, Fashion Week began in 1997 as an event that gathers fashionistas at one time and in one place, providing designers with an auditorium, lighting, sound and security. There were few designers, even fewer buyers and fashion journalists, but there was a buyer-rich after the Bandit nineties, exhausted by the Soviet deficit, without any special claims to taste and style – someone who wanted “designer” and was hungry for consumer patriotism.

Sergei Byzou FW 2000 at Ukrainian Fashion Week

The layer of buyers in Ukraine was almost superfluous – things were easily given away from the catwalk, for an additional payment, the designers even promised not to sew such a thing to anyone else.

Without buyers and mass replication, the fashion age gradually turned into a bloated and outdated Vanity Fair – a parade of narcissism that developed outside the industry. Since 1998, we have been talking about the “Ukrainian fashion industry” as “in the process of formation”. It’s still there.

The industry is not growing, but the “parade of narcissism” is also on the decline – the “Old guests of the show” have aged and look tragic and pathetic.

If everything is so sad, then is it necessary that the Fashion Week in Ukraine continues to exist? For whom (what) is it now? Does organizing Fashion Week match the way people buy clothes today?

It is not difficult to imagine that outside of shows and fashion glosses, there is a different, more real and more relevant world. The internet has changed the perception of not only fashion, but also society, changed self-perception.

DZHUS at Ukrainian Fashion Week

The fashion system of seasons and full seasonal collections is a serious financial burden for the designer. In addition to production costs (on average, you need to submit 35 looks), you need to pay for participation in the fashion week (and this is tens of thousands), as well as the work of models, stylists, makeup artists, photographers.In return, you get to content, which freshness and relevance fall hourly – photos and videos, some coverage in the press (which in Ukraine, for the most part, promotes only “their own”).

This whole system can be circumvented by investing money gradually and directly, periodically creating information guides around individual goods (looks). You don’t need to be present at Fashion Week – you pay for articles in Targeted Media, attract suitable opinion leaders, come up with promotions, collaborate with artists, and so on. In Ukraine, there are many examples of brands that entered the international market without showing any collection at Ukrainian Fashion Week (the most famous Vita Kin). Many “permanent and unchanging” participants miss seasons, or even completely leave the game (Podolyan, Gres, Zalevsky, Anisimov and not only them).

Of course, for” Dreamers in Rose-Colored Glasses”, Fashion Week is still an “Event”. Young designers dream of participating, hoping that after that “Grits from the sky” will fall on them. “Fashionistas” still take selfies against the background of banners, considering themselves cool. But does Fashion Week succeed in its main function – moving money from the pockets of customers to the wallets of designers?

Ksenia Schneider at Ukrainian Fashion Week

In recent years, not so much designers (manufacturers of a fashion product) as Ukrainian Fashion Week (an intermediary between the manufacturer and the buyer) receive taxpayer support in the form of State injections. Can this be considered as an investment in the development of the industry? To answer this question, you need to know when large amounts of taxes will return to the state budget of Ukraine from the additional increase in the profits of the supported organization (return on investment).

Have you ever heard that spending public money in Ukraine is treated as an investment?

As for consumers, two global trends also prevent them from spending money on rags. The first “Bees vs honey” is ecological fashion. Most of the expositions of the latest Ukrainian Fashion Week are some kind of upzycling, recycling and “other second – hand”. For me, this is an assumption that re-stitching garbage reduces the overall blockage. The logic is there: instead of throwing out the trash right away, you will play with it and these amusements will save you from buying new junk. It’s fashionable, but it’s anti-fashion, the “death of fashion” as a constant update.

From Ukrainian Fashion Week

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Ukrainian fashion

Sereda s/s 2020

Ukrainian fashion fashion consists of collections, events and places that represent the work of Ukrainian designers and brands.
In Ukraine, the fashion industry during the twentieth century has not been formed. This is caused by many factors. Soviet ideologists considered fashion a negative manifestation of capitalism — waste and a means of distinguishing between the poor and the rich. And even though there was a wealthier upper class in the USSR, fashion was not officially recognized – there was light industry.

Ukrainian fashion week

Production and consumption of light industry goods were regulated and planned centrally, and by the time things reached the shelves of stores, they were already out of fashion. However, the need to create fashionable looks was so strong that Western trends, although with considerable delay and simplification, penetrated into the Soviet Ukrainians everyday life in a variety of ways: clothing was sewn in an artisanal way on an individual order in homes or at home seamstresses, brought from foreign trips or bought from speculators.

Only in the second half of the twentieth century began to work large domestic model houses in Kyiv, Donetsk, Kharkiv, Lviv, Odesa, and Dnipro. But these state-owned enterprises have not distinguished themselves by world recognition, creating global trends, or providing the country’s population with high-quality fashion clothing. The most famous Ukrainian designer of the 1980s and 1990s was Mikhail Voronin, who invented the vest-layout method of sewing classic suits.

New impetus for the development of domestic fashion gained after the collapse of the Soviet Union and the Declaration of independence of Ukraine. During the transition of the economy to market conditions, private ateliers and fashion houses appeared.

In 1997 Ukrainian fashion week was founded, numerous festivals, exhibitions were held, and fashion magazines were published.

Kyiv, Lviv, and Odesa can be considered as a kind of “fashion centers” in Ukraine. Ukrainian Fashion Week and Kyiv Fashion Days, exhibitions and fashion festivals are held in the capital of Ukraine.

Vogue.Ua

Lviv Fashion Week is almost a monopoly among significant fashion events in Western Ukraine, and in Odessa fashion competition is fierce: Odessa Fashion Days, Odessa Fashion Week, Odessa Holiday Fashion Week and Mercedes-Benz Odessa Fashion Days are events of a similar format, between which the collections of several Odessa designers run.

Among the most popular Ukrainian designers are Vita kin, Andre Tan, Anton Belinskiy, Ksenia Schnaider, Yulia Efimchuk, Lilya Pustovit, Roksolana Bogutska, Martha Wachholz, Oksana Karavanska.

Oksana Karavanska

However, Ukrainian fashion products have not become competitive even in the domestic market.

The specificity of domestic designer clothing is determined primarily by semi-industrial conditions of its production, which leads to high labor intensity, non-circulation and, as a result, high cost and inflated prices. This offer of designers is in demand by a small number of customers, so Ukrainian fashion can not be considered a full-fledged fashion industry. At the same time, domestic garment factories that have sufficient capacity for mass production do not pay enough attention to product design. They either offer non-prestigious products that are difficult to call fashionable or work to fulfill tolling orders of foreign brands.

Lviv Fashion Week

The Ukrainian fashion market is still dominated by powerful global fashion brands and foreign manufacturers of inexpensive mass fashion.
The main opportunity to compete in the modern fashion market is a full-fledged systematic development of design, production, promotion, and trade, taking into account not only macro-and micro-economic factors but also the laws of fashion and culture in General. The leading role in this process is played by the ability of the Manager and marketer: the ability to attract the necessary amount of investment and ensure their high economic efficiency.

Text from: Мельник М. Т. Мода: від авангарду до япстерів / Мирослав Мельник — К.: MODOSLAV, 2018. — 190 с. (In Ukrainian).

Martha Wachholz

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UFW FW18-19 WILL BE HELD IN KYIV FROM 3RD TO 8TH OF FEBRUARY

51 shows, 7 presentations and 2 lecture platforms will illustrate the state of Ukrainian fashion at the begining of 2018.

Ukrainian fashion want to become global. Step by step Ukraine tries to develop national fashion industry, which will be an important component of European culture and economy.

Kir-Khartley

Ukrainian Fashion Week will present collections by Larisa Lobanova, Ksenia Schnaider, Polina Veller, Kir-Khartley and other talented Ukrainian designers.

Larisa Lobanova

The 7-th of february will be the New Generation Day on Ukrainian Fashion Week. Among New Names: 2LFactura, Kristina_Аs, GA.EVA.

2LFactura

Read also:

Ad campaign of Lviv Fashion Week SS 2014

Yana Chervinska ss 2016

“In the Shadow of Young Girls in Flower”

In the ss 2016 season, Ukrainian designer Yana Chervinska was inspired by the novel of Marcel Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time”. The heroine of the new season is sweet melancholic girl-flower, which understands that fades and loses its petals. It is nostalgic for her youth and sadness – in the clothes she combines her favorite girly flounces, ruffles, bows, floral appliques and bright colors, but are replaced by meaningless black and white prints in the form of individual young girls.

The collection is based on a contradiction: the images are sent to both the youth and adult perky elegance, soft knitwear brand bordered with denim, cheerful colors and bows – a dramatic and even more aggressive prints by Alina Zamanova.

From Kiev with fashion

The original article on Russian was published at MOONSTORE.it

Украина и мода или зачем нам свой фешн

http://moonstore.it/fashion/miroslav-melnik/ukraina-i-moda-ili-zachem-nam-svoy-feshn.html

March 18, the fashion marathon gets to Ukraine. Despite all the problems and woes in the country, Ukrainian Fashion Week evolving with each new season. You may be skeptical about the Ukrainian fashion and it is easy to prove that the fashion is not industry in our country, we will never catch up with neither Paris nor China. But the planet twists by optimists and every “no” has it’s “yes”. 

The most powerful argument in favor of the Ukrainian fashion led me to a museum caretaker about ten years ago: “Ukrainian girl was born with a needle in her hand.” And it’s true, Ukrainian woman sewed always – girl makes her dowry, the bride gave the groom embroidered shirt, embroidered by mother shirt guarded the son, a grandmother passed tricks of the trade to her granddaughter. That is why our traditional costume is so filled with positive energy of love and harmony.

“All these shirts are for the village celebrations – it’s not a fashion!” – Say the skeptics. I agree that our culture is rooted in the Ukrainian village. I’m proud of it, because in the villages there are more sincerity, more love for man and nature, more respect for the old values ​​and traditions. Yes, the “village” in Soviet times was called all the old-fashioned, but that times has changed. The XXI century has brought a lot of nonsense in the cities, so the “village” has becoming increasingly cool.

Ukrainian girl was born with a needle in her hand

And about the “fashionable – not fashionable” you can argue for a long. It seemed we just tired with embroidered shirts and then hello again – hello from Valentino Couture spring-summer 2015 show. Beautiful, trendy, expensive embroidered shirts – cool.

Cool and the fact that in 1997 Ukrainian Fashion Week was the first prêt-à-porter Fashion Week in Eastern Europe with format, consistent to international standards and the schedule, inscribed in the world’s fashion schedule.

Cool, that during 18 years our Fashion Week has evolved in many directions: there were interesting inter-seasonal projects, the number of designers participating, cultural program becomes more saturated each season – exhibitions, installations, performances, music videos and movies. And all this at the intersection of art and fashion, the ukrainian fashion.

During 18 years our Fashion Week has evolved in many directions

Cool, that besides the Ukrainian Fashion Week, Ukrainian Fashion develops on the international and regional levels. Our Daria Shapovalova in 2014 entered the list of 500 most influential people in the fashion world, and our Anton Belinsky in 2015 was among the 26 finalists of the LVMH prize. A range of international competitions and exhibitions, boutiques and showrooms, which are attended by Ukrainian designers, expanding with each season.

All of these achievements are even more valuable on the background of the political and economic development of Ukraine – all our fashion based only on the talent and enthusiasm of the people, “bitten by the fashion”. This definition I have borrowed from Andre Tan – the most popular Ukrainian designer.

“Bitten by the fashion” we fanatically do things we love and we do not care about all the difficulties and circumstances. Of course, we do not live in the pink lenses and understand that in the foreseeable future, Ukrainian fashion will be not comparable to the French or Italian, but we are developing and we look in the future with hope.

Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk )

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UKRAINIAN BEST FASHION AWARDS 2014

On September 9 the 5th Ceremony of the BEST FASHION AWARDS in Ukraine was held.

The BEST FASHION AWARDS are the only professional awards in Ukrainian fashion. It was started by Ukrainian Fashion Week at 2010 for and awarding the achievements of fashion designers and public leaders, who create a positive international image of the Ukraine.

The BEST FASHION AWARDS are determined every year –  a group of Experts evaluate collections of two fashion seasons. This year I was the one of 39 Experts: journalists, fashion critics, buyers and of public leaders. For me it was great honor and great responsibility. The only point of my choice, that coincided with the objective opinion of most experts, was the “Best Menswear Designer”: when I saw the F/W 2014-2015 collection of SASHA KANEVSKIY, I want to have every piece of it in my wardrobe.

The most important nomination – “Breakthrough of the year” – won young and very talented IVAN FROLOV.

The BEST FASHION AWARD “For Significant Contribution into Development of Ukrainian Fashion” quite deservedly got KATYA OSADCHA – one of the best TV-reporters in Ukraine, who represent our country all around the world.

I heartily hope that Ukraine will be in peace and prosperity, that Ukrainian fashion will develop and that next BEST FASHION AWARDS will reveal many new fashion talents.

Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk )

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