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LVMH Finalists for 2015 Prize

The list of final eight designers for LVMH annual Prize, the winner of which will receive €300,000 and a year-long mentorship:

  1. Arthur Arbesser
  2. Coperni,
  3. Craig Green
  4. Faustine Steinmetz
  5. Jacquemus
  6. Marques’ Almeida
  7. Off-White c/o Virgil
  8. Abloh and Vetements.

Of the eight finalists, two are menswear brands: Craig Green and Virgil Abloh. Meanwhile, French label Jacquemus, designed by Simon Porte Jacquemus, is back for a second time, having been selected as a finalist in 2014.

Three of the designers are based in Paris. Craig Green, Faustine Steinmetz; and Marques’ Almeida are based in London. Arthur Arbesser and Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, both based in Milan, complete the list.

The winner of the 2015 Prize will be announced on May 22nd.

Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk )

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The new generation of Ukrainian designers

The last day at Ukrainian Fashion Week was the New Generation’s Day. Of course there was a risk that nobody comes to see unknown designers, that they show a trifle and spoil positive impression from all the fashion week. But talent of young Ukrainian designers overcame all fears and surpassed even my most optimistic expectations

New designers shows on the catwalk of Ukrainian Fashion Week is very important not only for the future career of individuals, but also for the whole Ukrainian fashion. It’s like some kind of litmus, which indicates what forms the worldview of young people, haw good is designer education at Ukraine and what prospects will have Ukrainian Fashion tomorrow.

Collection ss-2015 by SVITLO is more about Ukrainian tradition, then about next summer fashion trends. But look at their honour, their adoration of Ukrainian authenticity! And it is not exploitation of underlined love for Ukraine in modern tough times – it’s their style, the DNA that was formed during five years.

The artist Marina Rybalko successfully debuted last year at MBKFD. But at Ukrainian Fashion Week the collection RYBALKO was a very pleasant discovery for me: forms, materials, the combination of textures and colours, prints and accessories – all that working together to create an integrated clear image.

LARA QUINT has also taken part in Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days and won the Be Next competition in Georgia. The designer is already known for her conceptual and ironic vision of fashion, which once again was proved in collection ss-2015 «ESC». I was most amused by handbags, which looks like the computer keys.

YANA CHERVINSKA covered the Ukrainian Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2015 wit her collection “Tea Party” – very beautiful and interesting stylisation of Lewis Carroll’s characters, led by the Mad Hatter. Bright images was supplemented mainly with funny slippers that looked a very witty ironic accent.

Sincerely Your’s,

Myroslav Melnyk )

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Haute Couture fall 2014/2015: High drama of modern fashion

5 days, 45 collections – from 6 to 10 July 2014 in Paris held a full week of Haute Couture.

In the Couture collections of last season the most innovation was “Haute sneakers”: “Wow, – I think – Soon Haute Couture will be easy and convenient.” But what about the fashion-art? What about Christian Dior with his corsets and dresses, wich weighs 20 kg? After all, he revived interest to the Haute Couture at the time of the post-war depression.

In the depressed 1990s Haute Couture was resuscitated by John Galliano, which was a “fresh breath” then. But the spirit of this breath has weathered.

Galliano’s successor – Raf Simons – also genius, but of a different kind. His fashion is far from theatrical aesthetics. Haute Couture collections of Chanel, Gaultier, Valentino and Martin Margiella for several seasons looks like if not new, but the continuation of the previous collections.

From Armani Prive we did not expect any revelations. Donatella? Do not tell me! She just has changed Gaga to Lopez, that’s all impressions after the Versace’s show. And in the celebrity-marketing Versace was overtaken by Gaultier with Conchita Wurst and by Dior with the sweet couple of Pen-Theron (sounds like the medicine).

Ullyana Serheenko can’t come out of the maze of Russian ballet fairy tales – a good foundation for the DNA of the brand, but not so fresh topic. From other collections of so-called “Nouvelle Couture” the most promising for me is Dice Kayek. And, of course, I was pleasantly surprised by revived house Vionnet: strict lines, corporate oblique cut, novelty, originality.

This can not be said about the new collection of Schiaparelli – it looks as if Elsa by herself with the height of surrealism spat on changing new trends and new consumer needs.

But the Haute Couture has losing it’s function of the ” ideas laboratory”. Fashion houses have begun to pay attention to commercial prospects of Haute Couture: sales grows thanks to Russian and Chinese millionaires.

We also has millionaires in Ukraine (not all of them escaped to Russia) , but is there any hope to have the Ukrainian Haute Couture? Let’s hope!

Sinсerely Yours

Myroslav Modoslav )

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