Архів категорії: 1970

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta was born in the Dominican Republic in 1932. However, the country of Spain was his earliest style muse.  At the age of 18, he moved to Madrid to attend the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando. As a student, de la Renta immersed himself in the culture of
Spain and, to make extra money, took up fashion sketching.

It was also in Madrid where he first became a fashion illustrator for the couture house of Cristobal Balenziaga in 1957.

Oscar de la Renta

Arriving in Manhattan in 1963, he worked for Elizabeth Arden and Jane Derby before going it alone, quickly became part of the fabric of the city’s fashion and social scenes.

Oscar de la Renta

De la Renta began his own signature ready-to-wear label in 1965. His designs were ladylike without being stiff, and he could whip up an airy summer dress with the same facility as he could a red carpet gown.

Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta

The label ” Oscar de la Renta” was an immediate hit thanks to De la Renta’s use of colour, his vibrant prints and romantic rendering of Spanish and Caribbean silhouettes. He said: “I fell madly for Spain, its people, its landscape and life in Madrid. The sights, sounds and drama of Spanish culture — bullfights, flamenco and the most festive celebrations such as the traditional ferias of Seville and fallas of Valencia — were burned forever in my imagination, defining my own aesthetic.”

Oscar de la Renta

Highly respected by his contemporaries, de la Renta served as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America from 1973 to 1976, and from 1986 to 1988. In 1990 the CFDA gave him its Lifetime Achievement Award. He also won the CFDA Womanswear Designer of the Year Award in 2000.

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta became the creative director of Balmain Haute Couture in 1992. Between 1993 and 2002 he designed the haute couture collections, becoming the first Dominican to design for a French couture house.

By the late ’90s and early 2000s, his work became the preferred wear of American first ladies. He dressed first lady Nancy Reagan in the 1980s, and then provided the gowns for inaugural events for both Hillary Clinton in 1997 and Laura Bush in 2005.

Nancy Reagan in the Oscar de la Renta red dress

De la Renta had been diagnosed with cancer during the first decade of the 2000s. He died on October 20, 2014, at the age of 82. His brand continues to function, and his creations are displayed in the best museums in the world.

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Raffaella Carrà – Italian style icon

Dress by Raffaella Carrà

The Italian actress, singer, dancer and TV host died at 78 last month. Born in Bologna in 1943, Raffaella Maria Roberta Pelloni, known as Raffaella Carrà, studied dance and acting, starring first in a few peplum films and appearing in Mark Robson’s “Von Ryan’s Express” (1965).

“Von Ryan’s Express” (1965)

Later she became more famous as a singer, dancer and co-host of programmes on Italy’s state TV Rai. Her songs, dance, music numbers and outfits made history for inspiring freedom, empowering women. At the end of the 1970s Raffaella became very popular in Spain and Latin America. Televisión Española hired her to conduct the live show “Hola Raffaella” between 1992 and 1993. In 2018, the king of Spain made her a dame, “al orden del mérito civil”, for being “an icon of freedom”. Her blonde bob and costumes became her signatures. Raffella Carrà’s myth developed with her wardrobe, created by costume designers who were loyal to her throughout her career – Corrado Colabucci, Luca Sabatelli and Gabriele Mayer. 

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Raffaella Carrà

Fashion Illustrations by Tony Viramontes

Tony Viramontes

Tony Viramontes (1956–1988) was an American artist, who found success in Europe and Japan as a fashion illustrator and photographer. From the late 1970s, his works appeared in numerous publications including Vogue.

Tony Viramontes
Tony Viramontes
Tony Viramontes

Viramontes died in 1988 at the age of 31 of an AIDS related illness. Just before his death, fashion designer Hanae Mori, who had a long standing working relationship with Viramontes, commissioned a large format coffee-table book titled Viramontes that was published in Japan.

Tony Viramontes for Hanae Mori

A more comprehensive study of his work, Bold, Beautiful and Damned: The World of Fashion Illustrator Tony Viramontes, was published in 2013.

Tony Viramontes
Tony Viramontes
Tony Viramontes
Tony Viramontes
Tony Viramontes

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Discovery: Thea Porter

Thea Porter was popular in late 1960-1970th. She born in Jerusalem to an Irish missionary and was raised in Damascus, Syria. She moved to London in 1966, at the age of 40. She opened her own textile and fashion boutique — Thea Porter Decorations.

The shop sold Eastern textiles and caftans imported from Persia, Syria, and India. The caftans began to sell so quickly that her imports couldn’t keep up with the demand, so she began designing and producing them herself. Her clothing range is easily identifiable by intricately decorated, hand painted, and layered fabric.

Her clothing was erotic, yet comfortable. Her customers included Lauren Bacall, Bianca Jagger, Mick Jagger, Inaara Aga Khan, Princess Margaret, Elizabeth Taylor. She was so widely popular in the late 1960s, that one critic even commented in 1969 that “The audience at the London premiere of the hippy musical Hair seemed to be completely dressed by Thea Porter.”

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Sincerely yours,

Myroslav Melnyk )